1976 CB750 K6 Motorcycle Diaries

09.20.20

New Developments:

  • Seat strap buckles and hardward arrived
  • Seat trim arrived

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Rear light still not working
  • Mechanical
    • Leaking oil near side panel
  • Other
    • Seat off

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical
    • One of the 2 wires that needs power (green/yellow, brown) isn’t getting it
  2. Mechanical
    • Leak coming from a ring somewhere

Plan:

  • Finish seat cover work
  • Change oil
  • Check plugs

Log:

  • Other
    • Finished seat cover work and installed seat
    • Changed oil
  • Mechanical
    • Checked plugs … fouled, running lean
    • Added another 1/4 – 1/2 turn out to carb air screws

Ideas:

  • Future work
    • Electrical
      • Methodically figure out rear light issue
    • Other
      • Fix oil leak(s)

______________________________________________________________________________

09.12.20

New Developments:

  • Seat Cover arrived
  • New tail light arrive
  • New shocks arrived
  • New grommets arrived
  • New steering nut arrived
  • New stock air filter arrived

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Rear light still not working
  • Mechanical
    • Leaking oil near side panel

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical
    • One of the 2 wires that needs power (green/yellow, brown) isn’t getting it
  2. Mechanical
    • Leak coming from a ring somewhere

Plan:

  • Install new shocks
  • Install new rear tail-light assembly and see if that somehow fixes things
  • Determine where oil leak is coming from
  • Begin seat cover work

Log:

  • Electrical
    • Installed new tail-light assembly … still no dice
  • Other
    • Installed rear shocks
    • Began recovering seat
      • Had to purchase new strap hardware (old and rusted on) – has not arrived
      • Had to purchase new “chrome” trim – has not arrived

Ideas:

  • Future work
    • Electrical
      • Methodically figure out rear light issue
    • Other
      • Install Seat Cover
      • Fix oil leak(s)

______________________________________________________________________________

08.26.20

New Developments:

  • Rectifier/regulator arrived

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Rear light still not working
    • Not charging while running
  • Mechanical
    • Cylinder one not firing

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical
    • Perhaps bad lamp housing?
    • Regulator white line dorked
  2. Mechanical
    • Not sure on cylinder issues

Plan:

  • Install new rectifier/regulator and test
  • Test to see if plug1 is getting a spark
  • Ride and take notes

Log:

  • Electrical
    • Installed new rectifier/regulator and tested
      • Battery is charging now while running
    • Cleaned up wiring
  • Other
    • Changed plugs and plug boots
    • Tested plug for cylinder 1
      • It was firing
    • Ran bike a bit
      • Exhaust header 1 was hot
    • Installed in-line filter
    • Reran fuel hose
    • Tightened down license plate
    • Tightened down gauges

Ideas:

  • Future work
    • Electrical
      • Methodically figure out rear light issue
    • Other
      • Install seat cover
      • Fix oil leak(s)

______________________________________________________________________________

08.23.20

New Developments:

  • Cylinder 1 not firing
  • Not charging

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Rear light still not working
    • Not charging while running
  • Mechanical
    • Cylinder one not firing

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical
    • Perhaps bad lamp housing?
    • Rectifier+regulator dorked
  2. Mechanical
    • Not sure on cylinder issues

Plan:

Log:

  • Electrical
    • Tested rectifier/regulator
      • Battery
        • Voltage = 12.2 V
        • Voltage @ 2000 RPMs = 12.18v
        • Voltage @ 4000 RPMs = 12.18v
        • Voltage @ 6000 RPMs = 12.17v
      • Rectifier
        • Diode
          • + on Red + all 3 yellows = OL
          • –  on Red + all 3 yellows approx 3.9v
          • + on green + all 3 yellows approx 3.9v
          • –  on green + all 3 yellows = OL
        • Ohms
          • Same as above but units different (approx .44 M Ohms?)
    • Jumped white regulator line to battery positive, ran bike and it was charging just fine
    • Ordered a $20 rectifier regulator on Amazon

Regulator
   11.5v reading across Green+Black (when battery is @ 12.2v)
   0v reading across Green+White (when battery is @ 12.2v

  • Purchased in-line filter but did not install

Ideas:

  • Path Forward
    • Electrical
      • Install new rectifier+regulator and test
      • Methodically figure out rear light issue
    • Other
      • Add in-line filter to fuel line
      • Find out why #1 isn’t firing
        • See if there is fuel in bowl #1
        • See if there is spark in plug #1

______________________________________________________________________________

08.22.20

New Developments:

  • Mitigated handlebar short
  • Rear light still not working

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Rear light still not working
  • Mechanical
    • Need to adjust and test things prior to taking her out

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical – Perhaps bad lamp housing?
  2. Mechanical – Need to adjust and test things and take her out

Plan:

  • Install carb clamps
  • Test brakes
  • So if I can get bike running smoothly

Log:

  • Mechanical
    • Clean carb clamps and installed
    • Ran fuel line
      • Purchased in-line filter but did not install
    • Installed tank
    • Drove around neighborhood
    • Had to add nut to gauges (they were not mounted)
    • Had to run take line to tachometer
    • Had to tighten a couple of pegs
    • New fuel led to her running great …
      • Until she lost her charge. Not sure if sputtering at the end of the ride was caused by that or something else
    • Also noticed that pipe for cylinder #1 is not turning blue or getting that hot at all, even though she feels like she is running well

Ideas:

  • Path Forward
    • Other
      • Add in-line filter to fuel line
      • Find out why #1 isn’t firing
        • See if there is fuel in bowl #1
        • See if there is spark in plug #1

______________________________________________________________________________

08.12.20 – 08.21.20

New Developments:

  • Figured out short problem
  • Might have issue with break switch
  • Rear light still not working

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Need to fix short

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical – Can eliminate short

Plan:

  • Need to wrap handlebar as much as I can to prevent short
  • Use glue gun to coat soldered area
  • File down soldered area

Log:

  • Electrical
    • Filed down soldered point in switch
    • Taped bars as much as I could
    • Glue inside of switch
    • Reinstalled switch, and tightened
    • Started bike (required quite the choke)
    • Tested break switch problem, all is well. The dual filament bulb gets bright when you plug the switch in, perhaps rear break was slightly engaged
      • Adjusted rear break so it wasn’t engaged

Ideas:

  • Path Forward
    • Electrical
      • Need to figure out rear light issues
    • Other
      • Air tires
      • Test brakes
      • Run bike a while
      • Take her out for spin
      • Need to clean the carb boot collars and put them on
      • When I took the center stand off I noticed the side stand but was not seated all the way in. Need to get bike propped up and redo that.

______________________________________________________________________________

08.11.20

New Developments:

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Nothing works

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical – Have a short somewhere
    • Probably Black
    • Not tail-end of bike
    • Not brake switch related

Plan:

  1. Methodically eliminate options

Log:

  • Electrical
    • Even though I had already done so, I just started fresh and began removing/unplugging things and testing.
      • Unplugged tail lights and turn signals
      • Unplugged rear break wires (group of 4 that run to rear brake)
      • Unplugged front brake switch wired
      • Unplugged horn wires
    • Tested and still blew fuse
      • Disassembled right hand ignition switch … whalla. Piece of shit was grounding out to the handle bar
      • INFO: A short will yield full battery charge readings across 15a fuse terminals (12.4v in this case). When operating normally, this will be closer to 9v.
    • Plugged everything back in to test … blew fuse
      • Noticed that the green/yellow brake line was causing issues so I unplugged it.
    • Was able to fire up bike.
      • Exhaust sounded pretty good, will need to test more

Ideas:

  • Path Forward
    • Electrical
      • Wrap handle bar with electrical tape and re-install switch
        • Might file down the back that was making contact
      • Figure out the green/yellow line problem
      • Tuck everything else in and clean up electrical components that I unplugged or moved around
      • See if rear light works
    • Other
      • Air tires
      • Test brakes
      • Run bike a while
      • Take her out for spin
      • Need to clean the carb boot collars and put them on
      • When I took the center stand off I noticed the side stand but was not seated all the way in. Need to get bike propped up and redo that.

______________________________________________________________________________

05.23.20 – 05.29.20

New Developments:

  • New exhaust has arrived
  • New cleaning brushes and tools have arrived
  • Old exhaust, collars, and bolts have been removed

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Everything works except tail light and high/low beam functionality
  • Carbs not installed
    • #2 leaking
  • Exhaust removed

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical – missing a jumper, perhaps to brown/red
  2. Carb issues are probably related to overflow crack
  3. Exhaust should be straight forward

Plan:

  1. Clean and polish bike
  2. Install exhaust
  3. Carbs – Clean and test
  4. Carbs – Install
  5. Test bike

Log:

  • Cleaning
    • Spent good chunk of weekend touching up the frame and polishing
    • Removed the center stand so it can be cleaned
    • Removed all foot-pegs, cleaned and put them back on
    • Polished head and fins which went pretty well, used SOS pad to polish the discolored aluminum which actually went pretty well
    • Cleaned underneath a bit, getting gunk off.
    • Replaced all but one head gasket covers, since they were crappy and hard to polish. One head gasket cover literally cracked my craftsman wrench which caused me to strip it.
    • Tried to remove the battery drop hose, but it got caught in the swing-arm at the end, so I decided to leave it there. I later inspected the area for potential damage or evidence that this caused electrical issues and that does not see to be the case. I also removed rear wheel components so I could clean them up and polish the hub.
  • Carbs
    • Built a carb test stand
    • Took them apart and cleaned out floats and float jets, sprayed carb spray
    • Put carbs back on carb test stand and all was well.
    • Was able to mount carbs on bike with the new carb boots easily, though the carb boots have to be in a very specific orientation.
    • Got throttle cables installed.
  • Exhaust
    • Installed exhaust
    • Have not been able to test for leaks, not entirely sure gaskets have been crushed like they should be under the flanges.
    • Originally installed center stand stopper,but took it off when I took off the center stand. Had to bend it a little.
  • Tried to test the bike/carbs/exhaust
    • Once everything was on and assembled, (exhaust, pegs, carbs, boots, etc), I turned on the bike and immediately noticed the tail light was on, which had been the last electrical problem I had. I got on the bike to start her up but as I was pressing the ignition and given her gas, I realized that a spark plug boot was not plugged in so I got off the bike to plug it in and then the 15A fuse blew/bike went dead.
    • The fuse that was on there was running hot for about 10-15 seconds.
    • I later removed the tail light and turn signals and tested and received the same behavior.
    • Removed the 2 female connectors from the steering column post and tested and received same, stalled behavior.
    • Put ignition slider switch to off and received the same behavior (maybe other switch as well?).

Ideas:

  • Electrical …
    • Notes on problem that occurred above
      • I initially thought something changed/moved when I got off the bike but now I am not so sure about that
      • I tested the rear tail light and turn signals the next morning (Thursday 28th) and there was no change in behavior … kept immediately blowing fuses
      • I put the ignition switch into off mode(s) and unplugged the 2 females on the steering stem (horn or break light??) and tested and the bike turned on with the tail light glowing again. Again after about 10 seconds or so the fuse blew.
      • Tried cleaning the contact points for the fuse box but it looks good
      • Visually inspected the bike head to tail and did not see anything obvious
      • Thought about the wiring again under the carbs since I worked around there a lot, but everything looked okay.
      • Nothing obvious in the head lamp bucket
      • Stator motor is not a concern since it does not run to the main fuse
  • Path Forward
    • Electrical
      • Check for continuity and grounds beginning in the ignition area (8 pin plug)
      • I did tighten the headlamp grounding bolt over the weekend, I think the right side, so there is a minor possibility that caused my issue?
      • What happens when I plug in headlamp?
      • Test the wires/connectors behind the oil tank by unplugging and trying again
      • http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,182748.msg2115083.html#msg2115083
    • Other
      • Need to clean the carb boot collars and put them on
      • When I took the center stand off I noticed the side stand but was not seated all the way in. Need to get bike propped up and redo that.

______________________________________________________________________________

05.18.20

New Developments:

  • Have recommendation from forum for removing exhaust flange bolts
  • Purchased more stuff …
    • Bought new exhaust system
    • Bought new exhaust flange bolts
    • Bought angled pick set for removing exhaust gaskets
    • Bought torch and PBlaster
    • Purchased some cheap 10w40 oil and 5 quarts of synthetic 10w40 for long term use
    • Emblem paint
    • More wire brushes
  • All of my previous purchases have arrived
    • Oil filter and gaskets
    • Point parts
    • Spark plugs
    • Spark plug resister covers
    • Front brake caliper kit
    • Pod filters
    • New floats and pins
    • 1 to 1 fuel petcock for carb testing
    • Set of MAC 4into4 drag pipes
    • Polishing wheels
    • Impact Driver

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Everything works except tail light and high/low beam functionality
  • Carbs not installed
    • #3 leaking
  • Exhaust removed

Assumptions:

  1. Electrical – missing a jumper, perhaps to brown/red
  2. Carb issues are probably related to overflow crack
  3. Exhaust should be straight forward

Plan:

  1. Install new aux petcock for carb testing
  2. Install new car floats and pins
  3. Test carbs
  4. Remove all exhaust parts
  5. Polish engine block in prep for installing exhaust and carbs
  6. Clean removed parts

Log:

  • Carbs
    1. Installed aux petcock
    2. Installed new floats and pins
    3. swapped bowls 2 and 3
    4. Tested
      • A lot better this time, after a lot of time and after all gas had been released carb #2 leaked out of the overflow at a high rate, but stopped quickly because the aux setup was out of gas.
  • Exhaust
    • Used torch, PBlaster and impact driver to get off other flange bolts. ports 4 came out one flange took some work and pounding
    • Removed the exhaust gaskets using the pick tools
  • Cleaning
    • Polished left side of bike
      • Mothers polishing attachment was great but only lasted for one side of bike
    • Removed shifting peg and cleaned it
    • Mothers polish was doing wonders
    • Still have some discoloration on the block
      • Spoke to people on forum, this is caused by zinc and other metals leaching to the surface. Wet sanding it or painting is my best option.
    • Worked on collars some more
    • Cleaned oil filter cover in ultrasonic cleaner which caused bad results. Had to wire brush it
  • Oil job
    • Drained old oil
    • Changed filter
    • Replaced 2 gaskets
    • Added new cheap oil

Ideas:

  • Electrical …
    • Need to test the following:
      1. Find out why the tail light only works when brake is engaged. It should be on when the bike is running.
      2. Get voltage readings for headlamp on high and low settings
      3. SOHC forum questions
  • Carbs
    • Replace bowl #2 (leaking bowl) with another from other carb set
    • Try to replace gasket as well
  • Exhaust
    • Install new exhaust
  • Cleaning and prepping
    • Continue to clean and prep the engine block and pedals first
    • After engine block is clean and ready for exhaust and carbs I can focus sprocket, wheels and forks

______________________________________________________________________________

05.10.20

New Developments:

  • Bought a bunch of parts
    • Oil filter and gaskets
    • Point parts
    • Spark plugs
    • Spark plug resister covers
    • Front brake caliper kit
    • Pod filters
    • New floats and pins
    • 1 to 1 fuel petcock for carb testing
    • Set of MAC 4into4 drag pipes
    • Polishing wheels

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Everything works except tail light and high/low beam functionality
  • Carbs no installed
    • #3 leaking

Assumptions:

  1. Missing a jumper, perhaps to brown/red
  2. Carb issues are probably related to overflow crack

Plan:

  1. Make sure all connections are crimped
  2. Remove brown/white and red/black from right hand switch and test functionality again.
  3. Uninstall exhaust in preparation for the exhaust I purchased
  4. Clean parts

Log:

  • Prep and Cleaning
    1. Stripped off exhaust
      • This was surprisingly hard.
      • Could not get 3 out of the 4 flanges off. Will need to ask forum how best to do this.
    2. Took off collars and foot pegs and cleaned
    3. Cleaned engine mounting bracket
    4. Worked on cleaning rear sprocket
    5. Cleaned from right side fork
  • Electrical
    • Unplugged brown/white and red/black from right hand switch and was able to verify everything works as expected regardless of position of on/off sliding switch
    • Tried a few variations on things
      • Can unplug black/red male from headlight cluster from brown/red female, and instead run it to black/red female and nothing changes
      • If I instead run the black/red male (comes from loom) to the brown/white cluster the taillight comes on but the turn signals do not work.
      • Taillight filaments and fuse are okay

Ideas:

  • Electrical …
    • Need to test the following:
      1. Find out why the tail light only works when brake is engaged. It should be on when the bike is running.
      2. Get voltage readings for headlamp on high and low settings
      3. SOHC forum questions
  • Carbs
    • Wait until new floats and pins come in and replace all of them
    • I swapped the #2 and #3 float bowls so if #2 starts leaking when I test (inside without tape) then I know the problem is with the float bowl, overflow valve.
  • Exhaust
    • How do I get off those damn flanges? Should I take them off? Ask forum.
  • Cleaning and prepping
    • I need to clean and prep the engine block first
    • After engine block is clean and ready for exhaust and carbs I can focus sprocket, wheels and forks

______________________________________________________________________________

05.07.20

New Developments:

  • Received recommendation from SOHC forum to test battery, fuse, ignition Red and Black lines, and headlamp positives for variations in voltage.

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Signals are working
    • Headlamp comes on but kills signals
  • Carbs no installed

Assumptions:

  1. Need to go through complete electrical operations to verify everything is working as it should.

Plan:

  1. Disconnect the headlamp, rear light and turn kill switch off with ignition switch on.
  2. Test Black muti-meter lead on -ve battery then work your way along with redLead:-
    1. +ve at fuse
    2. Output of fuse
    3. Red at ignition switch
    4. Black at ignition switch
    5. Black in rats nest

Log:

  1. Ignition bundle (where key is inserted) unplugged:
    • Battery – 12.35v
    • 15A fuse – 12.35v
    • Ignition Red – 12.35v
    • Ignition Black – 0v
    • Rats nest hots – 12.35v
  2. Ignition bundle plugged in right hand switch on Run + ON:
    • Battery – 11.95v
    • 15A fuse – 11.59v
    • Rats nest hots – 11.2v
  3. Right Hand Switch in Off and Off position:
    • Battery – 12.17v
    • 15A fuse – 12.12v
    • Ignition Red – 12.27v
    • Ignition Black – 0v
    • Rats nest hots – 12.05v
  4. And not that surprising …. drumroll … the headlamp and signals work together when the right hand switch in set to RUN + OFF. I did not see a noticeable difference in brightness between bright and dim output for headlamp, but at least they are working now. Some info and questions.

Ideas:

  1. Electrical …
    • Need to test the following:
      1. Find out why the tail light only works when brake is engaged. It should be on when the bike is running.
      2. Find out if I can disconnect the right hand switch on/off wires so that button does not kill my turn signals
      3. Is my headlamp dimming and going bright when it is switched to bright?
      4. Are other turn signal lines useful? When I plug them in now they blink very quickly, and do not do anything different otherwise.
    • Make sure everything is terminated and tucked away
      1. Down below carbs (black)
      2. Headlamp bundle
      3. Tail light stuff

______________________________________________________________________________

05.03.20

New Developments:

  • Learned when I went out to work on bike and saw signals not working again, that the ground to the back right turn signal was not making contact.
  • Also learned that the voltage in the headlamp is a full volt lower than the battery.

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Signals are working
    • Headlamp comes on but kills signals
  • Carbs no installed

Assumptions:

  1. Need to go through complete electrical operations to verify everything is working as it should.
  2. Need to test old head lamp to see if that makes a difference.
  3. Need to test carbs for leaks.
  4. Need to figure out what unplugged wires do.

Plan:

  1. Read shop and user manuals and make sure the electrical components operate correctly accept for headlamp.
  2. Take voltage readings.
  3. Test old lamp.
  4. Test carbs for leaks.

Log:

  • Plugged in old lamp, and had the exact same problem. The issue is not with the headlight.
  • Took voltage readings from battery and positive wired in headlamp … interesting.
    • Between positive and negative terminals of battery: 12.16v
    • Headlamp on low setting:
      • Blue: 11.56v
      • White: 0v
      • Green: 0v
    • Headlamp on high setting:
      • Blue: 11.27v
      • White: 0v
      • Green: 0v
    • I tested other hot lines in headlamp rats nest and everything in there either ran at 10.5v or 11.3v
  • Went through shop manual and tested all of the switches and electrical functionality of the bike.
    • Ignition position 0: nothing = Good
    • Ignition position 1:
      • Oil and neutral lights on = Good
      • Will not start unless in neutral = Good
      • When headlamp switch is on low and no lamp installed
        • All signals work = Good
      • When headlamp switch is on high and no lamp installed
        • Turn signals go solid/do not work = Bad
      • Brake lights seem to work regardless = Good
      • Horn seems to work regardless = Good
      • Ignition seems to work regardless of state of right hand switch = ?
    • Ignition position 2:
      • Running lights on = Good
      • Signals solid = Good
      • No ignition = Good
      • Not sure on headlamp = ?
  • Tested carbs
    • Carb #3 leaking out the overflow tube … took a while
    • Carb #4 eventually leaked also out the overflow

Ideas:

  1. Electrical …
    1. Monitor forum for feedback …
      1. Disconnect the headlamp, rear light and turn kill switch off with ignition switch on.
      2. Black muti-meter lead on -ve battery then work your way along with red
        1. Lead:-
        2. +ve at fuse
        3. Output of fuse
        4. Red at ignition switch
        5. Black at ignition switch
        6. Black in rats nest
      3. The blue/brown and black wire set is for the turn signal buzzer … advised to leave this off
  2. Carbs
    1. Do not use mallet, instead heat up carb boots and use gloves if you have to to mount carb
    2. The overflow tube is meant to keep the engine from flooding in the event that one of the floats do not sit correctly
    3. Inspect the overflow tube for cracks
    4. Swap inside carb bowls (screw is on wrong side)
    5. Work with the floats and float valve to see if I can get that fixed
    6. My damn auto gas thing I bought is a piece of shit, flows gas regardless of state of petcock.
      1. Maybe buy another single petcock?

______________________________________________________________________________

04.25.20

New Developments:

  • Received feedback on SOHC forum regarding testing
    • Test continuity/grounds through bike using test light

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Signals are shorted
    • No head lamp
  • Carbs no installed

Assumptions:

  1. Need to trace source of short using test lamp

Plan:

  1. Use test lamp to test for proper grounding throughout bike.

Log:

  • Plugged in battery tender again
  • Used test lamp to test grounds
    • While doing this, learned, incredibly, that my alligator clamp wires I bought are both garbage. Re-terminated the red one at both ends so I could use it with test lamp
    • Everything seems normal, headlamp stalks, ground in bucket, parts all over bike (not frame). Rear fender was spotty, but the ground wire running from the taillight was good
  • Opened the turn signal switch (left hand switch) to verify there wasn’t a contact with the handlebar that shouldn’t be there, all was well
  • Opened up both front signals to look for something loose, obvious, both seemed good
  • Discovered that if I unplug the orange/white connector from the right front turn signal, and the blue/white connector from the left front turn signal everything works! WTF … asked forum about this.
  • Also learned that my 7″ Halogen conversion kit is running at 12v 60/55w, and my shop manual says I should be running at 12v, 50/40 watts which is probably why it isn’t working.

Ideas:

  1. Monitor forum for feedback
  2. Reach out to Vintage CB750 for a return.
  3. I can probably get a normal headlight at one of the auto places.

______________________________________________________________________________

04.12.20

New Developments:

  • Front brake was fixed last week
  • 3/4″ 32v 15a fuses are in
  • Halogen 7″ conversion lamp is in

Bike Status:

  • Electrical
    • Signals are shorted
    • No start
    • No Brake Light
    • No head lamp
    • Low Battery
  • Carbs no installed

Assumptions:

  1. Need to charge battery
  2. Need to eliminate shorts but reconnecting and taping everything

Plan:

  1. Plug in battery charger
  2. Make sure grounds are plugged in and secure
  3. Make sure all other plugs are secured and taped

Log:

  • Plugged in battery tender
  • Re-did all green connections in headlamp bucket
  • Re-did and taped turn signals
  • Re-did brake light
  • Tested things
    • Left turn signal is acting strange
      • When both sets (R and L sets) plugged in:
        • L = Both front blink, back left blinks, brake light blinks (quickly)
        • R = Brake light, right front and right rear blink (quickly)
      • When Left set is unplugged
        • Right blinkers blink normally (speed), and brake light blinks too
      • I tried an old blinker in place of the right blinker assembly and it behaved the same way
    • Headlamp, brake light, starter all work
      • Starter/ignition only works when headlamps is plugged in
      • When headlamp is plugged in and on normal mode
        • blinkers do not work
        • Rear light not on
      • When headlamp is plugged in and on high beam
        • Right front blinker solid
        • Rear light on

Ideas:

  1. Play with the 2 unplugged wires
    • Plug black in and test
  2. Re-read old forum solutions to my questions to make sure I am not missing anything
  3. Make sure no other connections in bucket are shorted
  4. Try blinkers without red jumper
  5. Post to forum
  6. Make sure headlamp/signal issues are not due to halogen conversion



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